The Cape Dory Board

Try Dwyer - I think that many of the RR pieces come from them.

https://www.dwyermast.com/

The only suggestion is to roughen the surface with 100 grit first. I typically use whatever is left from painting the boat - I have used hard & ablative, water borne & solvent. They all seem to work OK.

Why not just find a DS version? I looked at both and bought a DS because of the seating comfort the feeling of sitting that low in the water. For a while I had a Bullseye (purchased as a 1 year old) that I had in MA and a then 25 year old Ty DS in NY. When we moved back to MA full time I kept the DS...

Having passed the age at which I make fun of people who go south for the winter, my wife and I have begun to explore areas in which we could hide out from the worst months of the NE winter. We are leaning towards SC, having been there during the past two winters, sailing in Charleston harbor a few d...

The low budget solution is to use a line to hold down the luff side reef point to the tack. Alternatively you could install a reefing horn on your existing boom. Either would work well and not require a call to RR

Other than the black paint your boom looks the same as mine. I added the carbine hook to make it easier to remove the topping lift. I also added the outhaul block that was in my earlier post. When I bought my DS it too had roller reefing. When I purchased a new main I had one medium reef installed a...

I don't know what it looked like in 1975, but this is how it looked in 1985 (with a few new pieces).

I believe that all of the DS have foam as you have described - mine certainly does. The 1977 brochure introducing the DS describes it as "full foam flotation". I have always assumed that the reason that the DS includes flotation while the WE does not has more to do with the lack of a self ...

I can't offer any help in regard to the hull deformation, but for the mold and mildew try ZEP mold and mildew remover - available at HD. We have a bunch of heavy plastic outdoor furniture (white) that get pretty bad by the end of the winter. I tried many things including strong bleach solutions, but...

I am pretty sure that the prep was good: moderate heavy sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, finish, sand, finish - all with the recommended solvent wipes in between. The only point of failure is around the mast step where there is standing water 50 days a year (it takes a few days to evaporate after a r...

A few years ago I painted the cockpit of my Ty DS with Brightsides. I was happy with the result and I am generally happy with how it has held up. The generally part is due to the failure of the coating in select spots on the sole that are persistently wet. Although it is supposed to drain to the bil...

I have a Ty DS which I believe has the same crane as the 22 and Ty Sr. I think that my rigging was original and had toggles for both the jib and back stays. The only advantage that I can see is that the keep the stays centered. When I replaced the standing rigging two years ago I kept the toggles - ...

I am also in Marion. I have used Hydrocoat for about five years with good success. I paint every other year and do not have a lot of build-up.

Robert - it had nothing to do with the computer - I called them on the telephone . Their boast "MADE IN AMERICA", while strictly accurate (they solder the imported cells together), is misleading and designed to appeal to people who do not do their homework. I think that I would rather buy ...

Made in America is not really a well defined term. If you dig a little deeper you would have found that in this case "Made in America" means "Assembled from Imported Components". I don't think that there are any crystalline cells manufactured in the US anymore. If you are really ...