The Cape Dory Board

I concur with market - After reading about the rudder failures on Typhoons, during the restoration of my Typhoon I wrapped a piece of fiberglass cloth with West System epoxy around the rudder post and onto the rudder then faired it all down. I did this to prevent any water from getting into the rudd...

Be very careful here - if your boat has been in salt water environment the corrosion could have mated the bolt to the inside of the compression tube as well as the tube to the mast. PB blaster and gentle heat with the gentle persuasion from a small hammer and some gentle twisting with a locking set ...

When you add the foam then west epoxy (thickened) then clamp the two hulls by using boards to spread the clamp load you should be able to almost get the transom back to its original thickness. Then work on the rub rail. Once you get the boat finished it should be worth 1500 - 2000 since you have the...

I have the exact same CD10 with the same transom problem. There were a couple of posts on this board a few years ago describing the repair/replacement of the wood. It entailed removing the outer fiberglass then replacing the wood and reattaching the outer layer. The inner hull liner made it difficul...

I installed a CDI roller furler on my Typhoon after sailing it for a year with hanked-on sails. I have never been more pleased than with this furler. You can tighten the luff by tightening the tie-down at the tack. Sure - it is not for racers but I didn't buy the TYPHOON TO RACE! I bought it from Ri...

congratulations! If the CD14 is anything like my CD10 there is a drain hole to allow water to run out of the boat while on land. The original plug had a short chain to connect the plug to the boat in case of capsizing. Whenever I pull the boat out of the water and store it on the trailer I pull the ...

Definitely let the boat rest on the keel. The side supports are only to prevent the boat from rocking over. The hull cannot support the boat since it is solid fiberglass that may develop hairline fractures from pron]longed and recurring flexing from the hull supports. The width of the keel is somewh...

Everybody is right on. I am 220 and sailed with another who is 250 and 6'4". With another in the boat and 5-10 knots of wind it is a nice sailing boat with enough room for all. I installed a CDI roller furler, topping lift and boom vang - all essential for single handed sailing. I sail on and o...

Do you leave the transmission engaged in reverse when sailing or do you let the prop spin? The spinning could cause undue wear on the cutlass bearing..........perhaps we shouldn't go there again - just a thought!

Appears that the boat may be south of the equator in Australia etc.

I finally had a chance to get the oarlock placements. After restoring the CD10 I researched the potential problems with oarlock placement and decided that 11" aft of each seat edge was ideal. It gives leg/knee room while rowing and works flawlessly. I did not place risers under the oarlocks and...

I restored my CD10 and will check these measurements tomorrow. I do know that it was recommended that the oarlocks be raised slightly as well as moved aft a small amount. I did move them a bit aft and it makes it easier to row. As for raising then an inch off the gunwale I did not do that and wish I...

I have used Rigging Only and would not go anywhere else - they are honest, helpful and fair in their pricing.

tough decisions ahead. I know of other boats that have repeired the mast with no problem. However the internal halyards and relatively small dmiension mast section would not make this an easy task. If it were my decision, I would sell the new extrusion, look for a used mast - where a Typhoon hull ha...

I really like my loose footed mainsail - makes it a whole lot easier to put on in spring and off in fall as well as adjust foot tension etc. As for flying fish, when I was sailing on an old NY32 in Long Island Sound we had just finished sailing in the fog all night in the Vineyard Sound Race when th...