The Cape Dory Board

I think the really old Typhoon weekenders actually needed the drain plug since they did not have self-bailing cockpits. The 1976 Ty I restored had been on the hard and uncared for probably for 3 years - it got water between the keel lead and fiberglass and separated it as well as causing many cracks...

I just can't help but to get my 2 cents worth. You should take a small gas can and pour the first half gallon into it. Then fill the car. You will eventually get enough "hybrid mix" to run the lawn mower. Problem solved. However, does the light in the refrigerator stay on after you close t...

My CD10 is one of the models that has a double hull - both are thin fiberglass. I am about to start repairing cracks and penetrations to both inner and outer hull layers. From what I understand, not all CD10s were made that way - perhaps the same is true of the CD 14. Too bad you didn't get the regi...

I can understand why you did this but if one scupper starts to leak with valves you can at least shut it off. The only other thing I would do is to position the screws of the screw clamps on opposite sides of the fitting - this avoids and small leaks that could occur between the clamps. The weakest ...

OK - you made a good hit with the Typhoon and then those screamers in the back - however, I didn't see the redsox logo on your hat!

I removed the teak that surrounds the rudder post where it passes through the cockpit sole. Then I cleaned both ethe teak and coskpit sole with a putty knife to remove residual caulking, ten wiped it with acetone to remove all oils. Boatlife Life caulk is what I used - smear some on the teak and som...

How did you attach the vang to the base of the mast?

I concur about the rudder post block. My scuppers were tottally plugged when I salvaged the boat from the graveyard. Water filled the bilge but when I replaced the hoses and old gate valves then caulked the block to the cockpit sole all leaks stopped and even though I keep checking the bilge - there...

I removed the bracket when refinishing the boat. Get a long box whench and a friend with long skinny arms. Remove the inspection port in the aft bulkhead behind the rudder post - take the entire port off - not just the removable plate. This allows your arm in. Then while one person puts the box wren...

From the sound of it you were pretty well heeled over. In that case it is possibly to have the bitter end of the sheet below horizontal compared to the incoming part of the sheet to the winch. This leads to winch over rides where the top wrap slides down the winch to over ride the lower wrap. Make s...

I only sailed back from Bermuda to Point Judith on a Tartan 37. It felt as if we were the smallest boat out there especially when the seas were running 16-19 feet. It took two attempts since the first was aborted by a hurricane - with several dismastings. Weather can be really nice but can be brutal...

I sailed my TY for a year and a half and decided that the furler would be nice to have. I used the recommendations from this board and decided on the CDI #1. Make sure that you get the model with the extra bushing - merely a large washer that prevents friction when furling. I have had Harken and Fur...

Does your study imply that a 2-bladed prop will perform similarly? Did you test the effects of a free wheeling vs fixed prop in the turbulent water aft of the keel? And lastly, will this thread take until winter to solve?

The only Porta Potty I could find that would fit under the bunk board covering the area aft of the mast in the cabin was the SaniPottie. It is on sale at West Marine in the latest circular page 25 (April) for $59.99 - a discount of $20 over list price.

Yes - the mast support that I am considering was described in a previous post on this board - it entails extending a stainless tube from beneath the mast in the cabin to either the hull under the cabin liner or to a support block on the cabin deck or as what I am thinking of doing - to the forward b...